Pamplemousse Le Restaurant

The Twenty Meals That Are Not the Occasion

A prix fixe dinner gets planned. It goes on the calendar weeks ahead, it involves a decision about what to wear, and it is remembered afterward as an evening rather than as a meal.

It is also, for nearly everyone, a small fraction of the week. The same guest who plans one careful dinner a month eats twenty other meals decided in a car, standing up, or on the way back from something that ran late. Those meals are not lesser. They answer a different question, and the answer generally has to be within ten minutes and available without notice.

The two kinds of eating also fail in different ways. A weeknight meal that disappoints costs you a Tuesday and is forgotten by Thursday. An anniversary dinner that goes wrong is remembered for years. That asymmetry is why occasion dining carries the weight it does, and why the reservation, the pacing and the room matter as much as the plate does.

The casual end of this city handles that with technique nobody bothers calling technique. A thin patty pressed onto a hot griddle and a pizza baked fast in a very hot oven are both exercises in heat and timing. A counter that describes its own cooking as Italian-inspired and American-made is one example in the south valley. Smash and Slice lists smash burgers, New York-style pizza, wings, salads and chicken, at addresses on South Maryland Parkway and South Fort Apache Road. Neither of those methods is fussy and neither pretends to be, which is part of why they hold up under a lunch rush.

To be plain about it, we are not describing their cooking, and nothing here is a recommendation. Readers ask us about eating in Las Vegas generally, not only about prix fixe evenings, and a business that publishes its menu and both of its addresses is a simple thing to point at when they do.

Occasion dining stays what it has been. Prix fixe dinners, a wine list, and private events for the occasions that need a whole room rather than a table by the window. The Tuesday question is a search anybody can run from the driveway in under a minute.

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